Wednesday 30 July 2008

Wildlife in Pakistan - An Overview

The mountainous areas embracing the Himalayan, Karakorum and Hindukush Ranges are rich in fauna and flora, as compared to other parts of the country. These areas provide an excellent habitat for wildlife in the form of alpine grazing lands, sub-alpine scrub and temperate forests. These habitats support a variety of wild animals. The areas are difficult for human beings to access, hence, most wildlife is present in reasonable numbers though some are endangered for other reasons. Some of the main wildlife species are the snow leopard, the black and the brown bears, otter, wolf, lynx, Himalayan ibex, markhor, bharal, Marco Polo's sheep, shapu, musk deer, marmots, tragopan and monal pheasants. The snow partridge and snowcock reside at higher elevations. The Rhesus monkey, common langur, red fox, black bear, common leopard, a variety of cats, musk deer (over a limited area), goral, several species of flying squirrels, chakor, partridge and pheasants (koklass, kaleej and cheer) live in the lower elevations. Amongst these the snow leopard, musk deer, Marco Polo's sheep, and the brown bear are endangered. The Tibetan wild ass and the blue sheep populations have been reduced drastically. The cheer pheasant is reported to be extinct from within Pakistan's boundaries, and is included in the IUCN Red Data Book. The western horned tragopan was reported to have disappeared from within Pakistani territory, but has now been relocated to Indus Kohistan, although its numbers are low.
The main threats to the population of wild animals in the northern mountainous regions include, the competition with domestic livestock for existing natural forage, increasing human interference in the form of cultivation, the construction of roads, and hunting.
The Himalayan foothills and the Potohar region, including the Salt Range and Kala Chitta Range, are covered with scrub forests, which have been reduced to scanty growth in most places. Medium-sized animals like the Punjab urial, barking deer, goral, chinkara, partridges (grey and black), seesee and chakor are supported in these habitats. A variety of songbird fauna also occurs in these areas.
Vast Indus flood plains have been cleared of natural vegetation to grow crops. Very little wildlife habitat has been left untouched. Only animals like the jackal, mongoose, jungle cat, civet cat, scaly anteater, desert cat and the wild hare occur in these areas. Hog deer is found in riverine tracts. The crop residues and wild growth support reasonable populations of black and grey partridges.
Little vegetative cover, severity of climatic conditions and the great thrust of grazing animals on the deserts have left wild animals in a precarious position. Parts of Thall and Cholistan are now being irrigated, with the situation almost identical to that of the flood plains. Chinkara is the only animal, which can still be found in average numbers in Cholistan, but rarely in Thall. The blackbuck, once plentiful in Cholistan has now been eliminated. However, efforts are being made to reintroduce them back into the country. A small number of blue bulls are found along the Pak-Indian border, and some parts of Cholistan. Grey partridge, species of sand grouse and the Indian courser are the main birds of the area. Peafowl occur in some areas in Cholistan.
The Thar Desert supports a fair population of the Chinkara gazelle. Peacocks are only found in the wild, mainly because of the protection they enjoy in Hindu communities. The wild ass migrates from the Indian part of the Rann of Kutch to the Pakistani part in search of food.
The Houbara bustard is a regular winter visitor to the desert. Visiting diplomats have hunted and reduced their numbers. The great Indian bustard is sporadically sighted. The imperial sandgrouse is another migrant visiting these areas. Grey partridges are frequently sighted. The python is also threatened with extinction.
The Sulaiman and Kirthar Ranges present habitats manifesting unique characteristics. The former supports the straight-horned markhor, chinkara and urial, whereas Sindh ibex, urial, chinkara and common leopard occupy the latter. The straight-horned markhor, which is almost extinct from within settled boundaries of Pakistan, occurs in somewhat fair numbers in the Tribal Areas. The chakor, seesee and grey partridge are birds commonly found in the tracts.
The reed beds and tamarisk bushes along the rivers support hog deer and black partridge populations. However, due to occasional heavy floods their numbers have also been reduced. The Indus dolphin, fishing cat, and smooth otter are found in the Indus River waters below the Chashma Barrage. The gavial has become extinct in Pakistan. The crocodile is found in small numbers in lower Sindh. Wild boar numbers have increased because of the immunity they enjoy in a Muslim society that forbids its consumption by humans.
The animals found in the south-western mountains of Balochistan are: Sindh ibex, Chiltan markhor, straight horned markhor, wild sheep, leopard, marbled pole cat, Blandford's fox, chinkara, goitered gazelle and the marsh crocodile. The cheetah, is believed to be extinct and the Makran (baluchistan) bear critically endangered. The Houbara bustard (migratory), sandgrouse, black and grey partridges, and the chakor and see see partridges are also found here.
Irrigated forest plantations have emerged as the prevailing land use practice for the last 100 years. These ideally provide excellent habitat for chinkara, hog deer and blue bull. Forest management does not cater to the needs of these wild animals. This, coupled with the poor implementation of laws has resulted in the extinction of species in the irrigated plantations. Due to habitat disturbances, the ungulates have failed to establish themselves, whereas the partridges have flourished well.
The striped hyena and the wolf are widely distributed in the sparsely populated parts of the country. However, information about them is scanty. Information about carnivores in general is difficult to obtain because of their nocturnal mode of life and high mobility. The black bear and brown bear populations are also not understood completely.
Birds of prey like the peregrine, cherrug or saker falcons, tawny eagle, imperial and greater spotted eagles, osprey, shikra, and the black-winged kite occur throughout Pakistan but their population statuses are unknown.
Pakistan's coastline of 1,050 km consists of a variety of habitat types, supporting a wide range of animals, of which over 1000 are fish species. Pakistan's marine flora and fauna have not been studied properly. Hence, detailed information on these species is deficient. Along the shores, there are four species of marine turtles: the ridley, green, leather back and hawksbill turtle, which are of high economic importance. Due to loss of habitat and human disturbances, their population is also decreasing.
About eight species of freshwater turtles are found in Pakistan. Sand lizards, monitors, geckos, agamas, diamond snakes, sand snakes, vipers, cobras, kraits and the famous Indian python constitute the other reptilian fauna.
Large water bodies in the country support a variety of waterfowl both resident and migratory. The extent of wetlands is constantly being changed. On one hand, swamps and marshes are being drained to reclaim land, whereas on the other hand, new dams (large water bodies) have been created for irrigation purposes. Canal irrigation through seepage has also contributed towards increasing the land area under water in the form of water logging. Such areas support a great number of waterfowl by providing them with an excellent habitat. The wetlands are one of the most important wintering areas and "green routes" of Asia. The important waterfowl in Pakistan are the ducks (mallard, pintail, shoveler, pochard, gargeny, ruddy shellduck, teals, tufted and gadwall), geese (grey lag, bar-headed), coots, flamingoes, pelicans, spoon bills, storks, ibises, plovers, curlews, sand pipers, snipes, and herons. The marbled teal and white-headed duck have decreased in number and now visit the wetlands infrequently. Among the waterfowl are (resident) gallinules, moorhens and rails, gulls, terns, water cock, grebes, cormorants, egrets, bitterns, and jakanas. The spot-billed lesser whistling teal and the cotton teal are resident ducks. A rich wader fauna visits the coastline during the winter.
Efforts have been made to document the status of wildlife and in some cases, the correct status is known, whereas most of the information about their populations is sketchy. With the strengthening of wildlife organisations in the country more reliable information can be obtained.

Saturday 26 July 2008

Houper Valley - Hunza Nagar Khass





The above pictures is of Houper Valley; located at the distance of 2 Hour from the splendid Karim Abad valley of Hunza Nagar, the valley is rich in greenfields with glacier on its East and North-East Sides. The Valley has two sky high peaks named as Kapal Peak and Baulter Peak. The economic conditions of the valley is not good as we compare it to the other parts of the Hunza Valley but culturaly they have sharp resemblance with other parts of the Hunza Valley.

Wednesday 23 July 2008



Bultit Fort Karimabad Hunza
During the last week we have an exposure visit to Hunza valley, in which I capture some pictures of spectacular Hunza valley. The current photo I want to share is about Baltit Fort, History of which is also mentioned underline.

Baltit Fort or Balti Fort is an ancient fort in the Hunza valley in the Northern Areas of Pakistan. In former times survival of the feudal regimes of Hunza was ensured by the impressive Baltit fort, that sits on top of Karimabad. The foundations of the fort are said to date back around 700 years, but there have been rebuilds and alterations over the centuries. In the 16th century the Thum married a princess from Baltistan who brought master Balti craftsmen to renovate the building as part of her dowry. The architectural style is a clear indication of Tibetan influence in Baltistan at the time.
The Mirs of Hunza abandoned the fort in 1945, and moved to a new palace down the hill. The fort started to decay and there was concern that it might possibly fall into ruin. Following a survey by the Royal Geographical Society of London, a restoration programme was initiated and supported by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture Historic Cities Support Programme. The programme was completed in 1996 and the fort is now a museum run by the Baltit Heritage Trust.
The setting of the Baltit Fort is arguably unrivalled in Pakistan. It is set at the head of the Hunza Valley in the Northern Areas amongst some of the highest mountains of the world, overlooking the valley settlements which it was built to protect. While it has lost its defensive role in modern times, the Fort remains a symbol of the region's history and culture. It is a synthesis of the architectural form, domestic lifestyle and belief systems of the region, providing insight into the values of the Hunza people.The Fort has expanded with its increasing importance over the centuries and been adapted to changing needs and functions. Carbon dating tests indicate that some parts of the structure existed as early as the 13th century, with the last major modifications made at the beginning of the 20th century before conservation was undertaken in 1989. It is currently being re-used as an ethnographic museum.

My Work Place - District Kohistan (NWFP)

Dear All,

Currently I am working with “Earthquake Reconstruction & Rehabilitation Authority” in the District Kohistan. I have compiled a District Profile for information to the central authority; I want to share it with you also.

Brief Introduction to District Kohistan

1.1 GEOGRAPHY
The name of the District has been derived from the name of the area that is Kohistan, which means the land of mountains. The District lies between 34º 54´ and 35º 52´ north latitudes and 72º43´ and 73º57´ east longitudes. It is bounded on the north and north-east by Ghizer and Diamer Districts of Northern areas, on the south east by Manshera District on the south by Battragram District and on the west by shangla and Swat Districts.
1.1.1 Physical Features/ Topography
Kohistan means the land of mountains. Infact there is hardly any plane land; it is all mountains huge and massive. It could be correctly described as all mountains dotted with land. The Indus River cuts through the heart of Kohistan from start to end. Thus divide the District in to Hazara Kohistan and Swat Kohistan. The two areas have different history and culture. The two areas were merged in 1976 to form Kohistan District.

Before Kohistan came into be known as District, Hazara Kohistan was looked after by Political Tehsildar, Oghi. When Battragram was made subdivision, political Tehsildar Battragram used to administer it. The Tran Indus (Swat Kohistan), though inaccessible was however affectively ruled by ex-wali of Swat through a network of his “Hakims” and “force”.

It had six Teshils Viz Ranolia, Dubair, Pattan, Seo, Jashoi and Karang. The narrow Indus valley in Kohistan is flanked by two mightiest ranges of the world. On the left bank are the offshoots of the Himalayas while on the right bank are the offshoots of the Karakorum. The Ranges reaching Kandia valley from the north are considered to be the offshoots of the Hindukash, thus the three mightiest ranges of the world coverage on Kohistan. The highest mountain in the District is about 17 and 18 thousands feet while many peaks range in height from 6 thousands to 7 thousands feet.
1.1.2 Rivers and stream
The Indus is the main river flowing through the heart of Kohistan District. It is fed by a few rivulet of perennial flow in the District.
The rivulets shrink to a trickle in winter but swell up considerably during summer when snow melt up on the mountains. The important among them are Dubair River, Kayal nala, Musha rivulet, Zaid Kar nala, Kuz Jalkot nala, and Kandia River. A part from these there is numerous other streams and water falls which become prominent during summer and either totally disappear in winter or flow in little water.
1.1.3 Climate
The District is warm in summer except some areas of high altitude and very cold in winter. There is heavy snowfall and temperature generally falls below freezing point.
The summer months are from May to September. The winter season starts from November and continues till the end of March.
Monsoon reaches the lower parts of Kohistan i.e. Banked, Batera, Ranolia, Dubair and Jijal only.
1.1.4 Flora
In the upper hilly areas of the District Deodar, Kail and Fir spruce forests are available at a large scale while the lower areas have oak trees in abundance. The people hence a number of forest societies have been established for the exploitation of forests had not allowed harvesting of forest by Forest Development Corporation.
For further a forestation, activities by the watershed Management have been extended only up to Monsoon range Dubair cum Jijal.
1.1.5 Fauna
Over 140 birds’ species have been recorded in Palas sub-division including seven of the eight “restricted range” west Himalayan species. Palas valley contains at least four of Pakistan’s six pheasant species, including the world’s largest known population of the globally threatened western Tragopan Mela nocephalus.
Many other species exist, in abundance, including red fox Vulpes, jackal canis auria Himalayan ibex capra ibex, grey goral naemorhedus goral, stone marten maltes foina, yellow throated martew martes faluigula, stoat mustela erminea, white footed (Altai) weasel mustela altaica small Kashmir flying squirrel coglaucomys (hylopetes) fimbriatus.

1.2 AGRICULTURE AND RELATED SECTORS

1.2.1 Agriculture
Agriculture is the primary sources of employment in rural areas. There is scarcity of land, yet people practice agriculture where it is possible. Only Kharif crops are grown in high altitude lateral valleys which remain very cold in winter. Both Kharif and Rabbi Crops are grown in the lower valley and along bank of the Indus River wherever land is available. The major crops grown in District are Maize, Wheat, Rice while Pluses i.e.Mot, Kot, Red Beans and vegetables. Potatoes are also grown.
1.2.2 Irrigation
Irrigation is not systematic. Almost all the valleys have gushing streams. The land along the bank of streams, which can be commanded, is being irrigated through channels constructed by the peoples themselves or by local government authorities. In some areas land is irrigated from springs also. Besides the following channels are being looked after by Irrigation Department.
1. Harban Irrigation channel Tehsil, Dassu.
2. Thoti Dana-Shekho Irrigation channel Tehsil, Dassu.
3. Seemo-Seer Irrigation channel Tehsil, Pattan.
4. Kolai Irrigation channels Tehsil Palas.
1.2.3 Fisheries and Wildlife
According to Palas conservation Project and Himalayan Jungle Project over 140 birds species have been recorded while Trout fish hatcheries were also established by Fisheries Department at Dubair for seed multiplication as well as for commercial purposes.
1.2.4 Forestry
There are forests on both right and left bank of Indus. They are placed under two forest divisions. i.e. lower Kohistan Forest Division and upper Kohistan Forest Division.
1.2.5 Livestock
After agriculture, the second most important source of sustenance in Kohistan is livestock. It is importance increases with the increase of altitude. The livestock is mostly traditional, giving very little output in terms of meet and milk while high pressure on vegetative cover. Most common stock is goat and sheep while cows and oxen also reared for milk, meet and ploughing.

1.3. INDUSTRY AND TRADE


1.3.1 Communication
a) Highways
The Karakorum highway runs from one end of the District to the other. The high way enters the District about eight kilometers up from Besham in Shangla District. It runs along the right bank up to Komila (85 Km) and the left bank (82Km) and stays so till it leaves the District about five kilometers ahead of Basha. The highway was officially opened for traffic on 18th June, 1978. Its total length in the district is 167 km and is 28 to 33 feet wide.
b) Roads
Kohistan Development Board (KDB) has constructed many link roads after the earthquake of 1974. When the Board was wound up, the communication and Works Department (C&W) took over the work of construction and maintenance of the roads and has since there constructed many roads connecting the interior valleys with the Karakorum Highway.
c) Post office
At present there are four sub post offices and 6 branch post offices in the district.

1.3.2 Trade and trade centre

The only route for commerce and trade from the District is the Karakorum Highway. The main trading centers are Dubair Bazar, Pattan Bazar, Komila Bazar and Shatial Bazar. All located on Karakorum Highway. All essential commodities like vegetables, food, grain, flour and all the other agriculture and industrial goods are imported to these markets from Swat and Manshera. These are also brought from Punjab, Havilian and Mingora (Swat).
Timber, hides, walnuts, honey, raw wood and desi ghee are sold in a very negligible quantity. Timber is the major export item of the District.
1.3.3 Mining
No systematic survey for Minerals has been carried out. No known mines exist at present except a chromites mine at Jijal yet to be exploited and extricated for commercial purpose. There are deposits of periodt in Supat Valley close to Naran, Manshera District.

1.4 HISTORY, ETHNICITY/TRIBES AND CULTURE

It is a fossil race and can be a good subject of study for Anthropologists. Due to lack of written record and lack of written traditions among the people, the origin and descent of the people is shrouded in obscurity.
The most widely belief amongst them is that their ancestors came from Arabia to escape the persecution for not accepting of Islam.
They have Arabs virtues like simplicity and regard for promise. Their tribal system and pastoral living is like the Arabs. Like them, they have their food without chilies. However, these observations are mythical and fantastic to a degree and are of academic interest.
Some educated amongst the Kohistan claim themselves the descendants of Alexander’s soldiers recruited from Iran and left in Kohistan while other attribute descent to Aryan.
1.4.1 Ethnicity and Tribes
On the swat side the tribes are divided into two groups, Manzar and Money. They are two brothers and sons of Nafria.
Tribes of Dubair, Kandia and Ranolia belong to Manzar group. Those of Banked, Jijal, Pattan, Kayal and Seo belong to Money group.
The main tribes on the left bank are Koka Manke Khel and Darram Khel. They are of cognate origin and do not convey clear territorial division.
1.4.2 Food
The main food of the people of Kohistan is Maize and locally grown vegetables, Milk, Cheese etc in the Valleys.
1.4.3 Occupations
Majority of the people are engaged with agriculture. A number of people do business. Most of the people depend upon their share in forest. Ratio of education is very low; however the tendency towards jobs in Government functionaries is increasing day by day.
1.4.4 Culture, Customs and Traditions
The men are fair, clean limbed with quick eyes and sharp feature. Generally the men support beards. Due to appalling poverty the standard of health is poor; Poverty is visible from the faces of women folk.
They prefer to go down areas to pick up work there. A man usually marries two and in some cases three or four women. The people are religious, Molvi are their only natural leaders and spokesmen.

1.5 EXECUTIVE JUDICIARY AND REVENUE SYSTEM

Kohistan District consists of three Teshils viz Dassu, Pattan and Pallas. The District Nazim is Chief Executive of the District assisted by Tehsil Nazim Dassu, Pattan and Pallas.
After the devolution of powers to the grass root level, all the devalued departments of the District like Finance, Education, Health, Agriculture etc are headed by the respective EDOs under over all control and supervision of the District Coordination Officer who is assisted by the Assistant Coordination Officer and three TMOs of the TMAs Dassu, Pattan and Palas. The District Police Officer is the District Head, consisting of Police stations Dassu, Komila, Batera, Pattan, Dubair, Palas and Shatial are responsible for law and order as well as investigation branch of the police.
1.5.1 Judiciary
Before the enforcement of the Nifaz-e-Sharia Ordinance 1994, the area on the right bank of Indus (Swat Kohistan) was ruled by Provincial Administrative Tribal Areas (PATA) regulation while the left side Administrated by regular law.
After the enforcement of the above ordinance in Malakand Division and Kohistan in 1994 and subsequent promulgation of Sharia Nizam-e-Adl regulation issued on 16th January 1999 with slight amendments, the judicial system throughout Kohistan District is managed through Qazi Courts.
1. Zilla Qazi (District & Session Judge)
2. Allaqa Qazi (Senior Civil Judge)
3. Allaqa Qazi (judicial Magistrate)
1.5.2 Revenue
Since no settlement has been carried out in the District therefore, revenue transaction is nominal. Tehsildar/Revenue officers and few Patwaries are entrusted the job of loan recoveries granted by Small Development Finance Cooperation (SDFC) and Zari Traqiati Bank of Pakistan (ZTBP).
They are also performing the duty of land acquisition and other miscellaneous duties of relief operation, domiciles etc. the District Revenue Officer (Collection) is the head of Revenue Administration.

1.6 Historical Places

1.6.1 Supat Valley
Supat Valley situated on the eastern southern side of Jalkot, which touches Kaghan and Narran valleys of Manshera District, is an important site for tourism. It remains covered with snow from September to April. The valley consists of vast plains and that is why horse race competitions amongst the people are held these. It is also famous for different colorful flowers in spring.
1.6.2 Seo Mosque
This Mosque is situated in Village Seo at a distance of 10 Km from Dassu Tehsil toward north and its centuries old. Its wooden pillars and beam are decorated by carving pictures and flowers on them.

Saturday 12 July 2008

A Hopefull Eyes - Young generation seeking knowledge at Tent School, after there school was put to ground by massive earthquake on October 8, 2005 which hits 5 Districts of Northern NWFP and Azad Jammu and Kashmir.

My Native Town – Mardan – A historical View

Mardan is a part of Peshawar valley, the whole area was once part of the ancient kingdom of Gandhara, the remains of which are scattered throughout the district.
Armies of
Alexander the Great reached Indus Valley through two separate routes, one through the Khyber Pass and the other through Kunar, Bajaur, Swat, and Buner in 326 BCE led by Alexander himself. After Alexander's death, the valley came under the domination of Chandragupta, who ruled the valley from 297 to 321 BCE. Buddhism became the religion of the Peshawar Valley during the reign of the Buddhist emperor Ashoka (the grandson of Chandragupta). The valley saw the revival of Brahmanism when the Greeks took over the supremacy of the area during the time of King Mehanda. The Scythians and Indians followed Greeks and retained control of the valley till the 7th century CE.
Afghans came to the valley in the 8th century. Peshawar valley at that time was under control of the rulers at Lahore. The Afghans joined the Gakkhars, who held the country between the Indus and the Jhelum and compelled the Lahore rulers to cede to them control of the west of the Indus and south of the Kabul River.
Sultan Sabuktigin defeated Raja Jaipal, the Hindu ruler of Lahore, during 10th Century and got control of the area. Sultan Mahmmod of Ghazni, son of Sultan Sabuktigin, made this area a rallying point for his numerous raids into the interior of India. The era of Ghaznavis came to an end in the 12th century when the Pashtun of Ghor overthrew the Ghaznavis.
Mughal emperor Babar invaded the area through Khyber Pass in 1505. The most prominent rathan of Emperor Akbar, Beerbal, was killed in the Katlang Area during a battle with the Yousafzai tribe. It remained under the rule of the Mughal emperors up to the time of Aurangzeb. During his regime the Pashtun tribes revolted and Aurangzeb himself led his army to re-establish his authority but after a hard struggle which lasted for two years (1673-75), he was compelled to agree to the terms which left the Pashtuns practically independent. In 1738 came the surrender of Peshawar to Nadir Shah and the territory west of the Indus, which included present Mardan district was ceded by the Mughals to Nadir Shah.
Ranjit Singh conquered Attock and Peshawar in 1814 and 1818 respectively. He left Hari Singh Mfl1a in command and went back to Lahore. This valley remained under the control of the Sikhs till 1849. They were defeated by the British in the Second Sikh War. Major Lawrence was appointed first Deputy Commissioner of Peshawar. From that time Peshawar (which included Mardan) became an administrative district under the Punjab Government. In 1903 Frontier Province was constituted and in 1937, Peshawar district was bifurcated into Peshawar and Mardan districts.
In the beginning, the name Mardan was given to a small area and gradually it spread through a vast area of the surroundings. The name means the land of brave men. (Historically the name is derived from old Sanskrit "Amar Daan". According to the history one monk of Lord Buddha donated his eyes (at the point of Pakeer Banr) to avoid materialistic gimmicks of the world and thus concentrate on his purification. Lord Buddha liked his scarifies and blessed him with his good deeds. It is also stated that he belonged to the present "Mardan" area and with the passage of time the name evolved from Amar Daan into Mardan). There is also a small village within Mardan which is called Mardan too.
The area constituting Mardan district was part of Peshawar valley. In 1937, Mardan was set up as an independent district after the name of its headquarters town. It was further divided into Swabi and Charssada districts in 1980s. However from police Administration point of view it's Regional Command Office is situated in Mardan, having jurisdiction over Nowshehra, Charssada and Swabi. The Regional commander is of the rank of Deputy Inspector General of Police who command the District police Officers of the above stated districts.
Mardan district may broadly be divided into two parts, north eastern hilly area and south western plain. The entire northern side of the district is bounded by the hills. The highest points in these hills are Pajja or Sakra, 2056 meters high and Garo or Pato, 1816 meters high. The south western half of the district is mostly composed of fertile plain with low hills strewn across it. It is generally accepted that this plain once formed the bed of a lake which was gradually filled up by the load of the river flowing into from the surrounding hills. From the foot hills the plain runs down at first with a steep slope which carried the rain water to the lower levels and ultimately to the Kabul river.