My Work Place - District Kohistan (NWFP)

Dear All,

Currently I am working with “Earthquake Reconstruction & Rehabilitation Authority” in the District Kohistan. I have compiled a District Profile for information to the central authority; I want to share it with you also.

Brief Introduction to District Kohistan

1.1 GEOGRAPHY
The name of the District has been derived from the name of the area that is Kohistan, which means the land of mountains. The District lies between 34º 54´ and 35º 52´ north latitudes and 72º43´ and 73º57´ east longitudes. It is bounded on the north and north-east by Ghizer and Diamer Districts of Northern areas, on the south east by Manshera District on the south by Battragram District and on the west by shangla and Swat Districts.
1.1.1 Physical Features/ Topography
Kohistan means the land of mountains. Infact there is hardly any plane land; it is all mountains huge and massive. It could be correctly described as all mountains dotted with land. The Indus River cuts through the heart of Kohistan from start to end. Thus divide the District in to Hazara Kohistan and Swat Kohistan. The two areas have different history and culture. The two areas were merged in 1976 to form Kohistan District.

Before Kohistan came into be known as District, Hazara Kohistan was looked after by Political Tehsildar, Oghi. When Battragram was made subdivision, political Tehsildar Battragram used to administer it. The Tran Indus (Swat Kohistan), though inaccessible was however affectively ruled by ex-wali of Swat through a network of his “Hakims” and “force”.

It had six Teshils Viz Ranolia, Dubair, Pattan, Seo, Jashoi and Karang. The narrow Indus valley in Kohistan is flanked by two mightiest ranges of the world. On the left bank are the offshoots of the Himalayas while on the right bank are the offshoots of the Karakorum. The Ranges reaching Kandia valley from the north are considered to be the offshoots of the Hindukash, thus the three mightiest ranges of the world coverage on Kohistan. The highest mountain in the District is about 17 and 18 thousands feet while many peaks range in height from 6 thousands to 7 thousands feet.
1.1.2 Rivers and stream
The Indus is the main river flowing through the heart of Kohistan District. It is fed by a few rivulet of perennial flow in the District.
The rivulets shrink to a trickle in winter but swell up considerably during summer when snow melt up on the mountains. The important among them are Dubair River, Kayal nala, Musha rivulet, Zaid Kar nala, Kuz Jalkot nala, and Kandia River. A part from these there is numerous other streams and water falls which become prominent during summer and either totally disappear in winter or flow in little water.
1.1.3 Climate
The District is warm in summer except some areas of high altitude and very cold in winter. There is heavy snowfall and temperature generally falls below freezing point.
The summer months are from May to September. The winter season starts from November and continues till the end of March.
Monsoon reaches the lower parts of Kohistan i.e. Banked, Batera, Ranolia, Dubair and Jijal only.
1.1.4 Flora
In the upper hilly areas of the District Deodar, Kail and Fir spruce forests are available at a large scale while the lower areas have oak trees in abundance. The people hence a number of forest societies have been established for the exploitation of forests had not allowed harvesting of forest by Forest Development Corporation.
For further a forestation, activities by the watershed Management have been extended only up to Monsoon range Dubair cum Jijal.
1.1.5 Fauna
Over 140 birds’ species have been recorded in Palas sub-division including seven of the eight “restricted range” west Himalayan species. Palas valley contains at least four of Pakistan’s six pheasant species, including the world’s largest known population of the globally threatened western Tragopan Mela nocephalus.
Many other species exist, in abundance, including red fox Vulpes, jackal canis auria Himalayan ibex capra ibex, grey goral naemorhedus goral, stone marten maltes foina, yellow throated martew martes faluigula, stoat mustela erminea, white footed (Altai) weasel mustela altaica small Kashmir flying squirrel coglaucomys (hylopetes) fimbriatus.

1.2 AGRICULTURE AND RELATED SECTORS

1.2.1 Agriculture
Agriculture is the primary sources of employment in rural areas. There is scarcity of land, yet people practice agriculture where it is possible. Only Kharif crops are grown in high altitude lateral valleys which remain very cold in winter. Both Kharif and Rabbi Crops are grown in the lower valley and along bank of the Indus River wherever land is available. The major crops grown in District are Maize, Wheat, Rice while Pluses i.e.Mot, Kot, Red Beans and vegetables. Potatoes are also grown.
1.2.2 Irrigation
Irrigation is not systematic. Almost all the valleys have gushing streams. The land along the bank of streams, which can be commanded, is being irrigated through channels constructed by the peoples themselves or by local government authorities. In some areas land is irrigated from springs also. Besides the following channels are being looked after by Irrigation Department.
1. Harban Irrigation channel Tehsil, Dassu.
2. Thoti Dana-Shekho Irrigation channel Tehsil, Dassu.
3. Seemo-Seer Irrigation channel Tehsil, Pattan.
4. Kolai Irrigation channels Tehsil Palas.
1.2.3 Fisheries and Wildlife
According to Palas conservation Project and Himalayan Jungle Project over 140 birds species have been recorded while Trout fish hatcheries were also established by Fisheries Department at Dubair for seed multiplication as well as for commercial purposes.
1.2.4 Forestry
There are forests on both right and left bank of Indus. They are placed under two forest divisions. i.e. lower Kohistan Forest Division and upper Kohistan Forest Division.
1.2.5 Livestock
After agriculture, the second most important source of sustenance in Kohistan is livestock. It is importance increases with the increase of altitude. The livestock is mostly traditional, giving very little output in terms of meet and milk while high pressure on vegetative cover. Most common stock is goat and sheep while cows and oxen also reared for milk, meet and ploughing.

1.3. INDUSTRY AND TRADE

1.3.1 Communication
a) Highways
The Karakorum highway runs from one end of the District to the other. The high way enters the District about eight kilometers up from Besham in Shangla District. It runs along the right bank up to Komila (85 Km) and the left bank (82Km) and stays so till it leaves the District about five kilometers ahead of Basha. The highway was officially opened for traffic on 18th June, 1978. Its total length in the district is 167 km and is 28 to 33 feet wide.
b) Roads
Kohistan Development Board (KDB) has constructed many link roads after the earthquake of 1974. When the Board was wound up, the communication and Works Department (C&W) took over the work of construction and maintenance of the roads and has since there constructed many roads connecting the interior valleys with the Karakorum Highway.
c) Post office
At present there are four sub post offices and 6 branch post offices in the district.

1.3.2 Trade and trade centre

The only route for commerce and trade from the District is the Karakorum Highway. The main trading centers are Dubair Bazar, Pattan Bazar, Komila Bazar and Shatial Bazar. All located on Karakorum Highway. All essential commodities like vegetables, food, grain, flour and all the other agriculture and industrial goods are imported to these markets from Swat and Manshera. These are also brought from Punjab, Havilian and Mingora (Swat).
Timber, hides, walnuts, honey, raw wood and desi ghee are sold in a very negligible quantity. Timber is the major export item of the District.
1.3.3 Mining
No systematic survey for Minerals has been carried out. No known mines exist at present except a chromites mine at Jijal yet to be exploited and extricated for commercial purpose. There are deposits of periodt in Supat Valley close to Naran, Manshera District.

1.4 HISTORY, ETHNICITY/TRIBES AND CULTURE

It is a fossil race and can be a good subject of study for Anthropologists. Due to lack of written record and lack of written traditions among the people, the origin and descent of the people is shrouded in obscurity.
The most widely belief amongst them is that their ancestors came from Arabia to escape the persecution for not accepting of Islam.
They have Arabs virtues like simplicity and regard for promise. Their tribal system and pastoral living is like the Arabs. Like them, they have their food without chilies. However, these observations are mythical and fantastic to a degree and are of academic interest.
Some educated amongst the Kohistan claim themselves the descendants of Alexander’s soldiers recruited from Iran and left in Kohistan while other attribute descent to Aryan.
1.4.1 Ethnicity and Tribes
On the swat side the tribes are divided into two groups, Manzar and Money. They are two brothers and sons of Nafria.
Tribes of Dubair, Kandia and Ranolia belong to Manzar group. Those of Banked, Jijal, Pattan, Kayal and Seo belong to Money group.
The main tribes on the left bank are Koka Manke Khel and Darram Khel. They are of cognate origin and do not convey clear territorial division.
1.4.2 Food
The main food of the people of Kohistan is Maize and locally grown vegetables, Milk, Cheese etc in the Valleys.
1.4.3 Occupations
Majority of the people are engaged with agriculture. A number of people do business. Most of the people depend upon their share in forest. Ratio of education is very low; however the tendency towards jobs in Government functionaries is increasing day by day.
1.4.4 Culture, Customs and Traditions
The men are fair, clean limbed with quick eyes and sharp feature. Generally the men support beards. Due to appalling poverty the standard of health is poor; Poverty is visible from the faces of women folk.
They prefer to go down areas to pick up work there. A man usually marries two and in some cases three or four women. The people are religious, Molvi are their only natural leaders and spokesmen.

1.5 EXECUTIVE JUDICIARY AND REVENUE SYSTEM

Kohistan District consists of three Teshils viz Dassu, Pattan and Pallas. The District Nazim is Chief Executive of the District assisted by Tehsil Nazim Dassu, Pattan and Pallas.
After the devolution of powers to the grass root level, all the devalued departments of the District like Finance, Education, Health, Agriculture etc are headed by the respective EDOs under over all control and supervision of the District Coordination Officer who is assisted by the Assistant Coordination Officer and three TMOs of the TMAs Dassu, Pattan and Palas. The District Police Officer is the District Head, consisting of Police stations Dassu, Komila, Batera, Pattan, Dubair, Palas and Shatial are responsible for law and order as well as investigation branch of the police.
1.5.1 Judiciary
Before the enforcement of the Nifaz-e-Sharia Ordinance 1994, the area on the right bank of Indus (Swat Kohistan) was ruled by Provincial Administrative Tribal Areas (PATA) regulation while the left side Administrated by regular law.
After the enforcement of the above ordinance in Malakand Division and Kohistan in 1994 and subsequent promulgation of Sharia Nizam-e-Adl regulation issued on 16th January 1999 with slight amendments, the judicial system throughout Kohistan District is managed through Qazi Courts.
1. Zilla Qazi (District & Session Judge)
2. Allaqa Qazi (Senior Civil Judge)
3. Allaqa Qazi (judicial Magistrate)
1.5.2 Revenue
Since no settlement has been carried out in the District therefore, revenue transaction is nominal. Tehsildar/Revenue officers and few Patwaries are entrusted the job of loan recoveries granted by Small Development Finance Cooperation (SDFC) and Zari Traqiati Bank of Pakistan (ZTBP).
They are also performing the duty of land acquisition and other miscellaneous duties of relief operation, domiciles etc. the District Revenue Officer (Collection) is the head of Revenue Administration.

1.6 Historical Places

1.6.1 Supat Valley
Supat Valley situated on the eastern southern side of Jalkot, which touches Kaghan and Narran valleys of Manshera District, is an important site for tourism. It remains covered with snow from September to April. The valley consists of vast plains and that is why horse race competitions amongst the people are held these. It is also famous for different colorful flowers in spring.
1.6.2 Seo Mosque
This Mosque is situated in Village Seo at a distance of 10 Km from Dassu Tehsil toward north and its centuries old. Its wooden pillars and beam are decorated by carving pictures and flowers on them.