The older portion of Peshawar is a walled city, to which the British added their own Cantonment guarded by barbed wires. This old city answers to a traditional Central Asian concept of a high citadel dominating the widely-scattered houses of the generality of people. The city wall surrounded the habitation of common men. The extent of the city must have varied in historic times. But the citadel is most certainly marked by Bala Hisar that still crowns the highest spot of the city. During the Sikh period its extent was delimited by General Avitabile, the Sikh Governor, who built a mud wall surrounding the city. Under the British nearly the whole of the enclosure wall had been built of pucca brick. The gates of the walled city afford an important evidence to study the development of the old city of Peshawar. These divide the walled town into three areas.Gates of Peshawar City
Lahori Gate
East of the channels lie the highest ground centred around Gor Kathri with Karimpura to its north-west and Pipalmandi to its south-west. At Pipalmandi, one can still see the old Pipal trees, described by Babar. This area was certainly occupied in the pre-Muslim period. Today, besides smaller lanes and by-lanes, two broad streets traverse this area. One starting from Chowk Yadgar and goes to Gor Kathri. Near the Clock Tower, it branches off to Karimpura and finally leads to the Hashtnagari and Lahori Gates.
The other starts from Pipalmandi and proceeds towards Ganj and Ekkatut (Yakatut) gates. This pre-Muslim city is separated by the joint flow of the channels near Chowk Yadgar from Andar-Shahr, the locality in which stands the mosque of Mahabat Khan. The mohalla of Dhakki Nalbandi forms an adjunct of this part. This whole area is again a high ground with shops of jewellery and of the famous Peshawari Lungis (turbans).
The name, Andar-Shahr, i.e. inner city, is very suggestive but the way in which it is separated from the old part by a channel and its proximity to Bala Hisar suggests that it once formed a part of the citadel area, though later in the Muslim period it was cut away to accommodate the over-flow of the population from the older city.
The third area is clearly defined. Between the Kohati Darwaza channel and the Qissa Khwani channel lies Jahangirpura, where the local variety of felt caps (Swati caps... probably the old flat kausia) are made, the name of the locality probably commemorates that of the Mughal emperor Jahangir, in whose reign this area must have been developed. From here the Mughal city spread out between the two channels westward with Sar Asiya (the head of a water mill) making the limit of the extension. In this zone we also have a Mughal era well, known as Sard Chah (cold water well), very famous for its drinking water. The focus of this zone is Namakmandi. which in the old times was the hub of the grain market but now the grain shops have been transferred to Pipalmandi. From Namakmandi the streets lead to Sar Asiya Gate, Sard Chah Gate, Saraki Gate, Bajauri Gate and Dabgari (correctly Dabba-gari, box-making shops) Gate. This whole zone is on a lower level than the older pre-Muslim part of the city and extends lengthwise along the old bed of the Bara channel. To this was added another locality named after Ramdas who was a treasurer during the Sikh regime. These areas of the old city were protected by a wall, originally earthen but later strengthened by brick facing, erected during the Sikh regime, with sixteen gates.
Sarasia Gate
The other starts from Pipalmandi and proceeds towards Ganj and Ekkatut (Yakatut) gates. This pre-Muslim city is separated by the joint flow of the channels near Chowk Yadgar from Andar-Shahr, the locality in which stands the mosque of Mahabat Khan. The mohalla of Dhakki Nalbandi forms an adjunct of this part. This whole area is again a high ground with shops of jewellery and of the famous Peshawari Lungis (turbans).
The name, Andar-Shahr, i.e. inner city, is very suggestive but the way in which it is separated from the old part by a channel and its proximity to Bala Hisar suggests that it once formed a part of the citadel area, though later in the Muslim period it was cut away to accommodate the over-flow of the population from the older city.
The third area is clearly defined. Between the Kohati Darwaza channel and the Qissa Khwani channel lies Jahangirpura, where the local variety of felt caps (Swati caps... probably the old flat kausia) are made, the name of the locality probably commemorates that of the Mughal emperor Jahangir, in whose reign this area must have been developed. From here the Mughal city spread out between the two channels westward with Sar Asiya (the head of a water mill) making the limit of the extension. In this zone we also have a Mughal era well, known as Sard Chah (cold water well), very famous for its drinking water. The focus of this zone is Namakmandi. which in the old times was the hub of the grain market but now the grain shops have been transferred to Pipalmandi. From Namakmandi the streets lead to Sar Asiya Gate, Sard Chah Gate, Saraki Gate, Bajauri Gate and Dabgari (correctly Dabba-gari, box-making shops) Gate. This whole zone is on a lower level than the older pre-Muslim part of the city and extends lengthwise along the old bed of the Bara channel. To this was added another locality named after Ramdas who was a treasurer during the Sikh regime. These areas of the old city were protected by a wall, originally earthen but later strengthened by brick facing, erected during the Sikh regime, with sixteen gates.
Sarasia Gate
The old wall still runs round the city along with the gates, though renovated and some removed, marking the extent of the pre-British city. The gates are named (clockwise) as:
Kabuli Darwaza
Darwaza Andar Shahr (Asamai)
Kachehri Darwaza (Tangsali)
Reti Darwaza
Rampura Darwaza
Hashtnagari Darwaza
Lahori Darwaza
Ganj Darwaza
Darwaza Ekkatut
Kohati Darwaza
Saraki Darwaza
Sard Chah Darwaza
Sar Asiya (or Tabiban) Darwaza
Darwaza Ramdas
Dabgari Darwaza
Bajauri Darwaza
Ganj Gate
With the development of a new sense of security and promulgation of the rule of law, today the importance of these gates no longer remains. Increased traffic has demanded widening of the streets and removal of the gates. The houses and shops, which were all within the walled city, can now be seen outside and in many places the old walls have been incorporated into new houses. In the older town the residential areas were closed quarters and the shops ranged in the Katras (octagonal or square) and Sarais for reasons of safety. Such Katras and Mohallas can even now be seen in Peshawar.
Behind the Kachehri Darwaza opens Chowk (Square) Yadgar, which gives access to Katra (Octagonal in shape) Abresham (Silk-merchant's shops). To its one side opens Pipalmandi, incorporating within it smaller squares, and to the other goes Katra Bazazan. However, today the most important are the open bazars. The Kabuli Darwaza, which was renamed Edwardes Gate by Sir Herbert Edwardes, the second British Commissioner of Peshawar, after its reconstruction, leads to the famous Qissa Khwani Bazar. "This is the Piccadilly of Central Asia and the fame of the Qissa Khani or Story-Tellers Bazar is known throughout the length of the Frontier, Afghanistan and far even beyond.
Portions of walls in dilapidated condition
According to Gopal Das this open Bazar was originally built by Avitabile. It is mentioned neither by Elphinstone nor by Mohan Lal, who have described the other bazars. From here we pass on to Bazar Misgaran (Bronze ware shops), in one lane of which is hidden Peshawar's Pottery workshop. Further ahead is the Batera Bazar (Pet Shops) leading to fruit market and finally to Chowk Yadgar.
Sirki Gate
Behind the Kachehri Darwaza opens Chowk (Square) Yadgar, which gives access to Katra (Octagonal in shape) Abresham (Silk-merchant's shops). To its one side opens Pipalmandi, incorporating within it smaller squares, and to the other goes Katra Bazazan. However, today the most important are the open bazars. The Kabuli Darwaza, which was renamed Edwardes Gate by Sir Herbert Edwardes, the second British Commissioner of Peshawar, after its reconstruction, leads to the famous Qissa Khwani Bazar. "This is the Piccadilly of Central Asia and the fame of the Qissa Khani or Story-Tellers Bazar is known throughout the length of the Frontier, Afghanistan and far even beyond.
Portions of walls in dilapidated condition
According to Gopal Das this open Bazar was originally built by Avitabile. It is mentioned neither by Elphinstone nor by Mohan Lal, who have described the other bazars. From here we pass on to Bazar Misgaran (Bronze ware shops), in one lane of which is hidden Peshawar's Pottery workshop. Further ahead is the Batera Bazar (Pet Shops) leading to fruit market and finally to Chowk Yadgar.
Sirki Gate
The first British Commissioner, Lt. Colonel Frederick Mackeson renamed Jahangirpura as Mackeson-ganj but the older name is still popular. The name Chowk Yadgar is after the Hastings Memorial, built in 1883, which commemorates Colonel E.C. Hastings. Today it is a centre of all political meetings. From here the bazar turns towards Gor Kathri. On our right is the Sabzimandi and in front stands the Ghanta-ghar (Clock Tower), erected in 1900 by Balmukund of Peshawar in memory of Cunningham, another Commissioner of Peshawar. From Qissa Khwani to Ghanta-ghar lies the main bazars of the old city, though today odd shops are seen in most of the streets.
Elphinstone describes a scene in the bazar:
“ When we returned, the streets were crowded with men of all nations and languages, in every variety of dress and appearance. The shops were all open. Dried fruits and nuts, bread, meat, boots, shoes, saddles, bales of cloth, hardware, ready-made clothes, and posteens, books, etc., were either displayed in tiers in front of the shops, or hung up on hooks from roof. Amongst the handsome shops were the fruiterers, (where apples, melons, plums, and even oranges, though they are rare at Peshawar, were mixed in piles with some of the Indian fruits); and the cook-shops, where everything was served in earthen dishes, painted and glazed, so as to look like China. In the streets were people crying greens, curds, etc,. and men, carrying water in leathern bags at their backs, and announcing their commodity by beating on a brazen cup, in which they give a draught to a passenger for a trifling piece of money. With these were mixed, people of the town in white turbans, some in large white or dark blue frocks, and others in sheep-skin cloaks; Persians and Afghauns, in brown woollen tunics, or flowing mantles, and caps of black sheep-skin or coloured silk; Khyberees, with the straw sandals, and the wild dress, and air of their mountains; Hindoos, uniting the peculiar features and manners of their own nation, to the long beard, and the dress of the country; and Hazaurehs, not more remarkable for their conical caps of skin, with the wool, appearing like a fringe round the edge, and for heir broad faces, and little eyes, than for the want of their beard, which is the ornament of every other face in the city”
Sard Chah Gate
Elphinstone describes a scene in the bazar:
“ When we returned, the streets were crowded with men of all nations and languages, in every variety of dress and appearance. The shops were all open. Dried fruits and nuts, bread, meat, boots, shoes, saddles, bales of cloth, hardware, ready-made clothes, and posteens, books, etc., were either displayed in tiers in front of the shops, or hung up on hooks from roof. Amongst the handsome shops were the fruiterers, (where apples, melons, plums, and even oranges, though they are rare at Peshawar, were mixed in piles with some of the Indian fruits); and the cook-shops, where everything was served in earthen dishes, painted and glazed, so as to look like China. In the streets were people crying greens, curds, etc,. and men, carrying water in leathern bags at their backs, and announcing their commodity by beating on a brazen cup, in which they give a draught to a passenger for a trifling piece of money. With these were mixed, people of the town in white turbans, some in large white or dark blue frocks, and others in sheep-skin cloaks; Persians and Afghauns, in brown woollen tunics, or flowing mantles, and caps of black sheep-skin or coloured silk; Khyberees, with the straw sandals, and the wild dress, and air of their mountains; Hindoos, uniting the peculiar features and manners of their own nation, to the long beard, and the dress of the country; and Hazaurehs, not more remarkable for their conical caps of skin, with the wool, appearing like a fringe round the edge, and for heir broad faces, and little eyes, than for the want of their beard, which is the ornament of every other face in the city”
Sard Chah Gate
The walls are still standing in many places though modern houses have either incorporated portions of the walls or are sitting tight over them. The best preserved part is to the south of the city and can be approached from the Dabgari Gardens. Many of the old gates are rebuilt in recent years and some of them even bear the date on them.
Outside the gates, old Mughal watch towers still stand. Gopal Das speaks of Burj (watch tower) Sayid Khan which can be seen just outside Ganj Gate. Starting from Darwaza Yekkatut, which was rebuilt in March 1944, we proceed eastwards and come across some shops facing the wall. Further ahead we note the repair to the wall and then a break. In sections the wall shows pucca (hardened) bricks at its outer facing and kaccha (feeble) bricks forming the core. A bastion shows a house on its top. A corner bastion is turned into a shop with a residential quarter on its top. We come to the arched gateway of Ganj, which was rebuilt in 1909. A road from this gate leads to the old graveyard and Hazarkhani.
Onwards the wall continues with some breaks. Outside the wall is the locality of Shaikhabad, where stands the famous Ziarat of Shaikh Junaid. In between is an old (now dried-up) Mughal well near a watch-tower. We reach Lahori Darwaza, which, in the mediaeval time, gave way to the main road leading eastwards. Further, the wall continues but is now encumbered with many modern structures. Outside the corner, where the wall turns, there was originally Makari Godam where Jhando ka Mela (Flag carnival) and Eid fairs were held but nowadays it houses the sprawling colony of Nishtarabad.
Kohati Gate
Outside the gates, old Mughal watch towers still stand. Gopal Das speaks of Burj (watch tower) Sayid Khan which can be seen just outside Ganj Gate. Starting from Darwaza Yekkatut, which was rebuilt in March 1944, we proceed eastwards and come across some shops facing the wall. Further ahead we note the repair to the wall and then a break. In sections the wall shows pucca (hardened) bricks at its outer facing and kaccha (feeble) bricks forming the core. A bastion shows a house on its top. A corner bastion is turned into a shop with a residential quarter on its top. We come to the arched gateway of Ganj, which was rebuilt in 1909. A road from this gate leads to the old graveyard and Hazarkhani.
Onwards the wall continues with some breaks. Outside the wall is the locality of Shaikhabad, where stands the famous Ziarat of Shaikh Junaid. In between is an old (now dried-up) Mughal well near a watch-tower. We reach Lahori Darwaza, which, in the mediaeval time, gave way to the main road leading eastwards. Further, the wall continues but is now encumbered with many modern structures. Outside the corner, where the wall turns, there was originally Makari Godam where Jhando ka Mela (Flag carnival) and Eid fairs were held but nowadays it houses the sprawling colony of Nishtarabad.
Kohati Gate
Then we come to Hasht Nagari Darwaza but the gate is no longer in existence. The city wall is now incorporated into a number of houses and shops till we reach Rampura Darwaza, also known as Nawe (New) Darwaza. Outside the gate is the new Rampura area full of houses. The wall ahead is not traceable till we meet Reti Darwaza, named after ironworks. Onwards the shops lead to Tangsali or Kachehri Darwaza, which faces Chowk Yadgar. We follow the broken wall at places and come to Asamai or Andar Shahr Darwaza. Outside this gate is the Lady Reading Hospital. The wall now climbs up Dhakki Nalbandi and goes down to Kabuli Darwaza, which was renamed Edwardes Gate in the last century. The gate is now gone. Onwards is a cinema lane which leads to Bajori Gate, the structure is now finished. The wall continues and shows two octagonal towers until we reach Dabgari Gate, today marked by a single pillar. Further ahead the broken wall continues upto Ramdas Gate. The wall turns ahead towards Sar Asia Gate, which is an arched gateway. Further there is an octagonal corner bastion and we reach Sard Chah Gate, built in 1903. Next is the Saraki Darwaza and finally we come to Kohati Darwaza, which was rebuilt in 1941. This gate leads to the old house of Sultan Yar Muhammad Khan, which is now turned into a Mission High School.
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